Care guide · Embroidery & print
A logo is the hardest-working part of a uniform: it goes through every wash the garment does, and it fails in public. Embroidery and print age differently — stitching frays and puckers, print cracks and peels — but the laundering habits that protect them are nearly identical.
Two failure modes
Embroidery is thousands of thread stitches through a stabilised patch of fabric. It fails by abrasion and heat: threads dull and fuzz where the drum grinds them, and aggressive drying shrinks the fabric behind the stitches so the logo puckers. It is, however, the tougher of the two — which is why it's the default for kit washed constantly.
Printed and heat-transferred logos are a film bonded to the fabric surface. They fail by heat and flexing: hot washes and hot tumbles soften the adhesive, edges lift, and the film cracks along fold lines. Print earns its place on garments where stitching doesn't work — waterproof shells (needle holes compromise membranes) and large-format designs.
Same protective habits either way — the routine below — plus one purchasing note: on hi-vis and FR kit, decoration placement and process affect certification, so brand through your supplier rather than a high-street press.
The routine
The single highest-value habit: the drum abrades the garment's inside instead of the logo. Velcro closed — it grabs threads and transfer edges alike.
The branded-kit compromise: hot enough for real soil, gentle enough for threads and adhesives. Check both the garment label and the decoration spec before going hotter.
Bleach takes the colour out of thread; softener leaves a film that lifts print edges and dulls stitching. Standard detergent does the job.
Hot tumbling is the top cause of peeled transfers. Line-dry where possible; tumble low where not.
Never run a hot plate across a printed logo — it re-melts. Press around decorations, or on the reverse through a cloth for embroidered areas.
Choosing
| Garment | Better choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Polos, sweatshirts, fleeces | Embroidery | Survives hundreds of washes; premium look |
| Waterproof & padded jackets | Print / transfer | Stitching perforates membranes and fill |
| Hi-vis garments | Either — placed correctly | Decoration must not cover certified fluoro or tape areas |
| FR garments | Supplier-applied only | Threads, films and processes must be FR-compatible |
| Large back designs | Embroidery at that scale is heavy and stiff |
Questions
Inside out with fastenings closed, at 40 °C on a normal cycle, with standard detergent — no bleach, no softener. Line-dry or tumble cool, and never iron directly over the stitching. The inside-out habit alone prevents most embroidery wear.
Heat. Hot washes and hot tumble-drying soften the transfer adhesive and the film itself; edges lift, then folds crack. Wash at 40 °C, dry cool, and never iron across the print — pressed correctly, a quality transfer lasts years of weekly washing.
Embroidery for anything washed hard and often — polos, sweats, fleeces — because stitching outlasts film. Print for waterproof shells (stitching makes needle holes through the membrane), large designs, and fine detail. Many uniforms sensibly use both across the wardrobe.
Yes, with rules: on hi-vis the decoration must not encroach on the certified fluorescent background or tape areas, and on FR garments the threads and process must be FR-compatible. That's why branding safety kit should go through the workwear supplier rather than a generic print shop.
When care can't bring a garment back to compliance, replace it — certified hi-vis and weatherproofs from stock, with embroidery for teams.